Daniel Roth Strikes Rose Gold with Its New Tourbillon Souscription
Daniel Roth has an uncontested legacy, with his eponymous label emerging as one of the most important brands in haute horlogerie. Daniel Roth is very much your watchmaker's favorite watch brand, with watches like the C147 two-counter chronograph or the C127 Retrograde being recurring holy grails (including mine).
So, hearing about the LVMH-led revival of the brand made me raise an eyebrow. However, Roth did the luxury powerhouse right, starting with the classics and revitalizing the 1988 Daniel Roth C187 with the new Tourbillon Souscription. And, they might have just perfected it with today's rose gold iteration.
The Daniel Roth Rose Gold Tourbillon Souscription comes in a very wearable 38.6 mm 18k 5N rose gold double ellipse case. Housed in that same case is a rose gold dial created in collaboration with another legend of haute horologie, Kari Voutilainen. It employs a ligne or straight-line guilloché pattern that was all completed by hand.
The one complaint I had about the original C187 Tourbillon Souscription is how it fits on the wrist. If you're like me, you'll be happy to know that the lugs to the Tourbillon Souscription have been redesigned with a slight curve to allow the watch to better sit comfortably on your wrist, especially if you're considering making this your daily driver (I know I am).
The case also has a slimmer form factor compared to the original due to the caliber DR0001 housed inside. This is where LVMH's expertise and talent shine as the movement is designed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the guidance of watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. The hand-finished movement boasts an impressive 80-hour power reserve and is distinguished by its insane level of finishing, like its "côtes-de-Genève" or bevelling.
Moving away from concealing the movement, the DR0001 now sits under a sapphire back on full display for the next time you want to get a glimpse of what's under the hood.
Though only the second iteration of the Tourbillon Souscription, with the yellow-gold version arriving earlier this year, it may be a favorite so far, offering just the right amount of progression without damaging the design of the OG.
Even more so, I may be one of the few people who don't like yellow gold. There's an unmistakable attractive warmth to rose gold. So, seeing the precious metal manifest itself in the Daniel Roth piece makes it even more desirable and harder to keep away from my wrist.
Nonetheless, if you are looking to add this watch to your collection, Daniel Roth has no more than 50 individually numbered tourbillions produced each year, with the Daniel Roth Rose Gold Tourbillon retailing for $165,000
Now that Daniel Roth and LVMH have dabbled in the classics, I am curious about what's next for the brand. Will we get a whole new model? Or another remake. Regardless, I am excited to see what will come next and will be watching.
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