Clarks in Tokyo: A Story of Quiet Rebellion
When you think of Tokyo’s Harajuku, the imagination flashes in neon. But just a stone’s throw away and beneath all the kawaii layers lie the quieter backstreets of Ura-Harajuku, a neighborhood where Tokyo’s underground fashion scene comes alive. It was here that Hiroshi Fujiwara—aka, the Godfather of Urahara kei—laid the foundation for what would become a global streetwear movement. His return to Japan in 1981 after soaking in the punk, skate, and hip-hop cultures of New York and London, sparked a shift. The streets of Ura-Harajuku became a high-energy melting pot, where influences from the West were reinterpreted through a uniquely Japanese lens.
And in this story of quiet rebellion, there’s an unlikely hero: the Clarks Wallabee. While the faces of this world, like Nigo, Jun Takahashi, and Hiroshi Fujiwara, became synonyms with Urahara kei, a thought must be spared for the plucky British shoe. But how did a British brand break into one of the most exclusive, niche style movements on the planet? The answer lies in cultural exchange, punk attitude, and the art of mixing the understated with the iconic.
Clarks’ documentary, helmed by Taichi Kimura, captures this cultural exchange in vivid detail. The film takes us from the 1960s, when Japan was first introduced to Ivy League prep style, to the 90s skate boom, tracking Clarks’ involvement all the way. As Kimura’s documentary delves into the archives, the connection between Clarks and Tokyo’s fashion landscape becomes crystal clear. The film features interviews with key figures—writers, independent store owners, stylists and Urahara insiders—who share their personal experiences with Clarks’ designs. And the accompanying lookbook? A picture perfect illustration of how Clarks fits seamlessly into every generation, paying homage to the original figures who helped define Tokyo’s streetwear culture.
“When you wanted to be a little bit different from the rest, people wore the Clarks Wallabee instead of sneakers”, says DJ Daruma. It’s within the Urahara kei movement of the ‘90s that Clarks found an unexpected but perfect niche. The movement was a mix of US hip hop and skate culture influences, filtered through Japan's own sense of minimalism. It was about finding what lay between the lines, about rejecting the mainstream while elevating the everyday.
For a scene so rooted in rarity and DIY ethos, Clarks’ entry was surprising, but it eventually made sense. What might seem like a heritage brand in the West took on a new meaning when placed within the context of Tokyo’s underground. The Wallabee, in particular, with its low profile and glove-like fit, offered the kind of IYKYK statement Urahara kids were looking for. It was different, but not loud—effortlessly cool without trying.
The brand’s presence in Japan dates back to a time when fashion was more about conformity than individualism. School uniforms were mandatory across the whole of Japan, and social norms still felt conservative. But in the back alleys of Ura-Harajuku, a shift was happening. Kids wanted something different, something that connected them to the world beyond their borders while still offering a unique sense of Japanese craftsmanship and taste. It’s here that Clarks’ footwear began to resonate, its silhouettes finding a home in a city that values detail, history, and a good story.
By the late ‘90s and early 2000s, figures like Fujiwara and Nigo were not only pioneers in the Urahara movement but cultural translators, bringing the best of Western street style to Japan’s fashion-forward youth. Wallabees, which were already popular among the Beastie Boys and Wu-Tang Clan, felt like a natural fit for this new tribe of Tokyoites who wanted to blend US hip-hop cool with Japan’s eye for meticulous detail.
Now, as Clarks launches their FW24 collection, the homage to Tokyo’s streetwear roots feels more relevant than ever. Featuring classic styles like the Desert Boot and Wallabee, the collection also includes nods to Harajuku’s vibrant youth culture with beaded laces, bold prints, and even platform soles. Lookbooks accompanying the collection spotlight both Tokyo’s fashion elders—those who have been there since the early days—and a new generation of tastemakers keeping the spirit of Urahara-kei alive. It’s a tribute to the past, but with a modern twist—much like the Urahara-kei movement itself.
Clarks has managed to anchor itself in history, not by being the loudest in the room, but by understanding the power of authentic storytelling. The Wallabee and Desert Boot are pieces of cultural history, stitched into the fabric of Tokyo’s most iconic fashion moments. They prove that sometimes, quiet rebellion makes the loudest statement.
Watch the full film here.
